I used this in my build of Tamiya's US Command Figure group as well. With a little of water, you can make it soupy so it flows over the base layer. This has a bit finer texture and consistency. When mostly dry, a thinner layer of Vallejo Brown Earth diorama texture paste. The texture is a bit more coarse than I like for the soil itself. This is a nice, gritty, Earth-Grey colored medium. First, I glopped on some Tamiya Diorama Texture Dark Earth Soil Effects paint. I gave them a couple coats of Minwax stain and let that dry overnight. These are of a decent quality, smooth, and, for $2.49 USD, pretty cheap. I bought a bag of four wooden discs at Hobby Lobby (the same style I used as painting bases in prior photos). This way, the figures won't crowd each other. Instead of mounting all of the figures on one large base (they do not necessarily interact with each other), I chose to make four individual bases. This is depicted in the 1950s movie about the vendetta. The Ronin's big battle took place on a snowy night. I had to bend the bow slightly outward at the top, so the string would not bind up on the archer's head. I could glue each sprue bit from the bow to the archer's hand, and then fit the arrow. Two pieces of thin stretched sprue worked better. I had planned on using wire for the bowstring, but keeping it straight and tight was an issue. I advise adding the quiver and it's strap BEFORE adding the bow and bowstring. The strap for the quiver is made from fine solder, flattened, and Blackened using Jax metal burnishing fluid (a stained glass/craft product). The instruction sheet shows how to detail these parts as I did. The archer's quiver has wire to hold the individual arrows in place. The banner is cut from the instruction sheet and mounted with fine wire. It isn't as if writing neat words in English would be a lot easier in this size, and going over the folds in the fabric. But, mostly, they are just blocks of chicken scratch. In some cases I tried (vaguely) to follow the characters as depicted on the box art. Painting with a brush was not going to be practical, so I used am extra fine point, Black, Sharpie pen. Decals would have solved this problem, but I looked into other methods. I noted that the photos on the instruction sheet show the figures finished without these. The characters on the figures sleeves pose a problem. You have color trim, detail parts like weapons, and some accessory parts that you have to add last, like the arror quiver and its cordage. There are a lot of small details to take care of on Samurai models. Re: Chapter 6 - Finished Figures - Steven Zuleski - 12:28 Chapter 6 - Finished Figures - David Nickels - 10:25 Re: Chapter 5 - Final Detailing - Steve Campbell - 18:56 Chapter 5 - Final Detailing - David Nickels - 17:01 Re: Tamiya's 47 Ronin - Steve Blankenship - 18:55 Chapter 4 - Painting Part Two - David Nickels - 10:11 Re: Chapter 3 - Painting Part One - David Amos - 19:20 Chapter 3 - Painting Part One - David Nickels - 09:11 Re: Chapter 2 - Samurai Knight Fever - Damon Agretto - 20:17 Chapter 2 - Samurai Knight Fever - David Nickels - 16:25 Re: Tamiya's 47 Ronin - Herve Charbonneau - 09:34 Re: Tamiya's 47 Ronin - Jesse Spute - 03:02 Re: Tamiya's 47 Ronin - Paul Owen - 22:28 Re: Tamiya's 47 Ronin - Damon Agretto - 20:57 Chapter 1 - The 47 Ronin - Historical Background - David Nickels - 16:15
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